Feeding Birds

Bird feeding is an immensely popular and enjoyable hobby and a great way to connect with nature. However, feeders can be a source of disease transmission for birds. When birds congregate at feeders, they can spread pathogens (such as viruses or bacteria) from one individual to another, either through direct contact or indirectly (e.g., droppings). In some cases, feeders have been linked to serious bird declines, such as the outbreak of trichomoniasis that decimated the European Greenfinch population in the United Kingdom. The good news is that you can take steps to help minimize disease transmission at your feeders and feed birds safely.

Project FeederWatch has developed best practices for feeding birds to help reduce the spread of avian disease in the United States and Canada. We routinely review, evaluate, and update our advice, as our knowledge of how avian diseases impact birds in North America continues to evolve.

There is no one-size-fits-all solution to reducing disease transmission at feeders because not all avian diseases are transmitted in the same way. For example, conjunctivitis (i.e., House Finch eye disease) is spread via exposure to eye discharge (i.e., ocular transmission), whereas salmonella and E. coli poisoning occurs via consumption of feces (i.e., oral-fecal transmission). Furthermore, not all birds are affected by every disease. For example, not every bird that is exposed to Mycoplasma gallisepticum will contract conjunctivitis; however, House Finches are especially susceptible to this bacterium, which led to serious declines in North American populations in the 1990s.

To feed birds safely, we recommend taking the following general precautions. Following these best practices will help reduce the presence and build-up of pathogens that make birds sick.

Clean Your Seed or Suet Feeders

Clean your seed or suet feeders regularly (e.g., every week or two) and more often during periods of heavy use or wet weather. Debris (such as leftover bits of seeds and hulls) can harbor pathogens that make birds sick. To clean your feeders, take them apart, scrub off the debris, and wash the parts thoroughly with warm water and dish soap. Rinse thoroughly. Cleaning bird feeders in a dishwasher works very well, though not all feeders are dishwasher safe. We recommend using a scrub brush or bottle brush for handwashing. Allow feeders to dry completely before refilling. Please do not use bird feeders that cannot be thoroughly washed, such as feeders made of wood.

Clean Your Hummingbird Feeders

Clean your hummingbird feeders even more frequently (e.g., every couple days) and more often during periods of heavy use or warm weather. Mold and fungi readily grow in sugar water, particularly in warm temperatures. As such, hummingbird feeders need to be cleaned more often than seed or suet feeders – ideally every time you refill them. If you see any sign of cloudy water or black mold, discard the solution and clean the feeder immediately. To clean your hummingbird feeder, take it apart and wash the parts thoroughly with warm water and dish soap. Rinse thoroughly.

Replenish Your Bird Bath

Replace the water in your birdbath as often as possible (e.g., every couple days). If you see any sign of cloudy water or mold growth or observe bird droppings, empty the bird bath and scrub it out. Scrub out birdbaths regularly (e.g., weekly).

Keep Your Feeding Area Tidy

Keep the ground below your feeders and birdbaths clean. Rake or sweep the ground below your feeder regularly to prevent accumulation of waste (e.g., bird droppings, moldy or spoiled food) that is unhealthy for birds and other wildlife. Bird food scattered on the ground also can attract rodents. If possible, periodically rotate your feeders between different spots to limit the accumulation of waste in any one area.

Protect Your Health

We recommend wearing gloves whenever you handle feeders and wearing a mask when raking or sweeping under feeders or birdbaths. Take care to wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning or filling your feeders.

Help Prevent Bird-Glass Collisions

Bird-glass collisions are unfortunately quite common both in cities and in residential areas due to the large amounts of reflective glass around buildings and the use of artificial light at night. Luckily, there are effective ways to substantially reduce the number of window strikes. Here are a few key steps you can take to help protect birds around your home:

Mark the outside of your windows with repeating patterns, such as dots. You can use paint, tape, stickers, or strings. To be effective, they should be spaced no more than 2 inches apart. This breaks up the reflection of vegetation or sky and helps birds see the window as a barrier.

Install screens outside your windows. This also makes it easier for birds to see that the windows are not continuations of the landscape.

Dim or turn off lights at night, especially during peak migration season. Most birds migrate at night, and artificial light attracts these migrants to urban areas where they are more likely to have collisions.

Keep Your Cats Indoors

Cats are the most numerous pet in North America. Unfortunately, they kill hundreds of millions of birds each year. Ground-feeding and ground-nesting birds and fledglings are at greatest risk. Feeder birds are also easy prey.

If you own a cat, we strongly recommend that you keep it indoors to reduce this needless loss. Your cat will benefit too; statistics show that indoor cats live longer, healthier lives than cats allowed to roam outdoors.

Feeders are not “one size fits all”–different species are attracted to different designs. Scroll through the options below to find the feeder style that works best for the species you would like to attract.

Ground

Many species of birds, including sparrows and doves, prefer to feed on large, flat surfaces and may not visit any type of elevated feeder. Song Sparrows, Fox Sparrows, and many towhee species, for instance, will rarely land on a feeder, but they will readily eat fallen seed from the ground beneath your feeders. To attract these species, try spreading seed on the ground or on a large surface like the top of a picnic table.

Large Hopper

A hopper feeder is a platform upon which walls and a roof are built, forming a “hopper” that protects seed against the weather. Large hoppers attract most species of feeder birds and will allow larger species, like doves and grackles to feed. If you would prefer to discourage these larger birds, try using a smaller hopper feeder.

Large Tube Feeder

A tube feeder is a hollow cylinder, often made of plastic, with multiple feeding ports and perches. Tube feeders keep seed fairly dry. Feeders with short perches accommodate small birds such as finches but exclude larger birds such as grackles and jays. The size of the feeding ports varies as well, depending on the type of seed to be offered. Note that special (small) feeding ports are required for nyjer seed in order to prevent spillage.

Nectar Feeder

Nectar feeders are specially made to dispense nectar through small holes. Choose a feeder that is easy to take apart and clean, because the feeder should be washed or run through the dishwasher frequently.

Platform

A platform feeder is any flat, raised surface onto which bird food is spread. The platform should have plenty of drainage holes to prevent water accumulation. A platform with a roof will help keep seeds dry. Trays attract most species of feeder birds. Placed near the ground, they are most likely to attract juncos, doves, and sparrows.

Small Hopper

A hopper feeder is a platform upon which walls and a roof are built, forming a “hopper” that protects seed against the weather. Small hoppers will attract smaller birds while preventing larger species, like grackles, from comfortably perching and monopolizing the feeder.

Small Tube Feeder

A tube feeder is a hollow cylinder, often made of plastic, with multiple feeding ports and perches. Tube feeders keep seed fairly dry. Feeders with short perches accommodate small birds such as finches but exclude larger birds such as grackles and jays. The size of the feeding ports vary as well, depending on the type of seed to be offered. Note that special (small) feeding ports are required for nyjer seed in order to prevent spillage.

Suet Cage

Suet or suet mixes can be placed in an onion bag or a specially made cage. Suet also can be tied to trees or smeared into knotholes. Cages that are only accessible at the bottom tend to be starling-resistent but allow woodpeckers, nuthatches, and chickadees to feed by clinging upside down. Make sure your suet cage lid is secured so that no animals can get stuck inside.

Like people, birds have different preferences when it comes to food. To learn which foods are likely to attract which species, scroll through the food types below.

• Black-oil Sunflower Seeds
• Cracked Corn
• Fruit
• Hulled Sunflower Seeds
• Mealworms
• Millet
• Milo
• Nyjer
• Oats
• Peanut Hearts
• Peanuts
• Safflower
• Suet
• Sugar Water

Black-oil Sunflower Seeds

The most common type of seed offered at feeders in North America is black-oil sunflower seed. This small sunflower seed is high in energy and has thin shells, making it the preferred food item for a wide variety of birds. Black-oil sunflower is among the favorite feeder foods of cardinals, chickadees, finches, and sparrows. Woodpeckers even consume these seeds on occasion.

Cracked Corn

Corn is an inexpensive grain that many FeederWatchers provide for birds. Whole corn is a favorite of Wild Turkeys and ducks, while cracked corn will attract doves, quail, and sparrows. To attract these birds, try mixing cracked corn with millet and feeding a scoopful on the ground or a platform feeder.

Fruit

Various fruits can prove quite attractive to many species of birds. Oranges cut in half will often attract orioles which will sip the juice and eat the flesh of the orange. Grapes and raisins (no preservatives, please) are a favorite of many fruit-eating birds. Mockingbirds, catbirds, bluebirds, robins, and waxwings are all species that are likely to feed upon fruit. Many species will also be attracted to the dried seeds of fruits like pumpkins or apples. Be sure to dispose of any fruit that becomes moldy because some molds create toxins that are harmful to birds.

Hulled Sunflower Seeds

Hulled sunflower seeds are simply sunflower seeds with the shell removed. Often referred to as "no mess" sunflower, the lack of hulls does indeed reduce the chaff underneath feeders. Any bird that eats sunflower seed will also be attracted to hulled sunflower seeds and many species will actually prefer to feed on this easy, work-free meal. Be sure to keep the seed dry because it tends to spoil more quickly than sunflower in the shell.

Mealworms

Mealworms are the larvae of the mealworm beetle, Tenebrio molitor, and they provide a high protein treat for many birds. Some people feed live mealworms while others prefer offering dried larvae (both forms are commercially available). Birds like chickadees, titmice, wrens, and nuthatches relish this food and mealworms are one of the only food items that reliably attract bluebirds. Offer mealworms on a flat tray or in a specialized mealworm feeder (available at many specialty bird feeding stores).

Millet

A small, round grain, millet is commonly found in seed mixes. Millet is a favored food of many smaller, ground foraging birds. A handful of millet sprinkled on the ground will keep your juncos and sparrows happy.

Milo

A reddish-colored, round grain, milo is often a major component of inexpensive seed mixes. Unfortunately, it is not a favorite of most birds, and the seed often goes to waste. Western birds tend to consume milo more than eastern birds. In the east, it is best to avoid mixes with large amounts of milo.

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Nyjer

Often called "thistle" seed, nyjer is not related to North American thistle plants but comes from the Guizotia abyssinica plant native to Africa. This imported seed has become increasingly popular in recent years, largely due to its ability to attract finches including American Goldfinch, Pine Siskin, and Common Redpoll. Because nyjer seed is so small it requires a special feeder with very small feeding ports. The small openings on the feeding ports will prevent the seed from falling on the ground. To prevent waste, it is best to feed nyjer seed by itself (rather than in a mix). Seeds are heat-treated prior to importation to prevent sprouting.

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Oats

Oats grown for cereal or livestock feed are also eaten by many species of birds. This grain is rarely found in modern bird seed mixes, but you can try offering oats on a platform feeder or in a hopper. Species most likely to be attracted to oats include doves and quail.

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Peanut Hearts

Peanut hearts for bird feeding are small pieces of peanuts without the shells that are best offered in a small hopper or on a platform feeder. Chickadees, titmice, nuthatches, and jays are most likely to take advantage of this food. Peanuts are high in energy and protein for your birds but keep an eye out for any signs of mold. Dispose of moldy peanut hearts immediately.

Peanuts

Peanuts are the seed of the Arachis hypogaea plant and actually grow underground. They are not true nuts but are actually legumes--and many birds love them! You can offer peanuts shelled or in the shell. Larger birds like jays may grab several peanuts at a time and fly off to hide them for later consumption. Smaller birds like chickadees, nuthatches, and titmice will have more success feeding on shelled peanuts. You can offer raw or roasted peanuts, but avoid salted peanuts or peanuts that have been roasted with any coatings or flavorings.

Safflower

Safflower resembles a white sunflower seed. Grown for its oil and for bird seed, safflower attracts cardinals and other big-billed birds. However, in our experience, most birds prefer sunflower seeds over safflower.

Suet

Suet is a good choice for attracting insect-eating birds. Most suet is beef kidney fat, which is inexpensive and available at many meat counters. Suet also can be purchased as processed cake that includes seeds, berries, and other ingredients. Be careful if you offer suet in hot weather; it may become rancid if it has not been specially processed.

Sugar Water

To make nectar for hummingbirds, add one part sugar to four parts boiling water and stir. A slightly more diluted mixture can be used for orioles (one part sugar to six parts water). Allow the mixture to cool before filling the feeder. Do not add red food coloring, as this is harmful to birds. Red portals on the feeder, or even a red ribbon tied on top, will attract the birds just as well.

Grit

Birds “chew” their food in the muscular part of their stomach, the gizzard. To aid in the grinding, birds swallow small, hard materials such as sand, small pebbles, ground eggshells, and ground oyster shells. Grit, therefore, attracts many birds as a food supplement or even by itself. Oyster and egg shells have the added benefit of being a good source of calcium, something birds need during egg laying. If you decide to provide eggshells, be sure to sterilize them first. You can boil them for 10 minutes or heat them in an oven (20 minutes at 250 degrees). Let the eggshells cool; then crush them into pieces about the size of sunflower seeds. Offer the eggshell in a dish or low platform feeder.

Water

Because birds need water for drinking and bathing, they are attracted to water just as they are to feeders. You can purchase a bird bath or simply use dishes or shallow pans. Birds seem to prefer baths that are at ground level, but raised baths will attract birds as well. Change the water every day to keep it fresh and clean.

If the bath is on the ground, arrange a few branches or stones in the water so that birds can stand on them and drink without getting wet (this is particularly important in winter).

One of the best ways to make your birdbath more attractive is to provide dripping water. You can buy a dripper or sprayer, or you can recycle an old bucket or plastic container by punching a tiny hole in the bottom, filling it with water, and hanging it above the birdbath so the water drips out.

In freezing climates, a birdbath heater will keep ice from forming. Never add anti-freeze; it is poisonous to all animals, including birds.

Place your feeders in a quiet area where they are easy to see and convenient to refill. Place feeders close to natural cover, such as trees or shrubs, which offer refuge to birds as they wait their turn to feed. Evergreens are ideal, as they provide thick foliage that hides birds from predators and buffer winter winds.

Be careful not to place feeders too close to cover with strong branches that can provide good jump-off points for squirrels and cats. A distance of about 10 feet seems to be a good compromise. You can provide resting and escape cover for ground-dwelling birds, such as Song Sparrows, by placing loosely stacked brush piles near your feeders.

Nothing provides an easier or more dependable food supply than “birdscaping” your yard with native vegetation. Because habitat loss is the leading cause of population declines for many bird species, planting native vegetation in your community is one of the best ways you can support local birds. To begin your native plant journey, check out these resources from Cornell Lab’s Garden for Birds.

While some people welcome any bird regardless of its size or appetite, others get frustrated when grackles, starlings, pigeons, or crows overrun their feeders. To discourage these larger birds from becoming a nuisance, use feeders that are made for smaller birds, such as tube feeders that have short perches and no catch basins on the bottom. Consider using feeders designed to deter larger birds, such as feeders that close under the weight of a large bird or feeders surrounded by a wire mesh large enough for only small birds to get through. Avoid platform trays, and do not spread food on the ground. Provide suet in starling-proof feeders (feeders that allow access to the suet only from the bottom).

Squirrels

It can be fun to watch a persistent squirrel finagle its way to your bird food, but if squirrels overrun your feeders, they can discourage birds from visiting. One way to keep squirrels from consuming volumes of bird seed is to distract them by feeding peanuts or dried ears of corn in a location some distance from your feeders. You also can try “squirrel-proof” bird feeders, but squirrels often find a way into these feeders, too.

Squirrel baffles, or barriers placed between squirrels and feeders, are usually the best way to keep squirrels away from your seed. On pole-mounted feeders, baffles can be placed beneath the feeder to keep squirrels and other mammals from climbing the pole. However, squirrels can jump to feeders placed less than ten feet from a tree or building. If squirrels are jumping from above, a tilting baffle at least 18 inches in diameter placed above the feeder might work. If your feeder is hung from a horizontal line, try placing lengths of plastic tubing around the line; the tubing should spin when a squirrel tries to walk on it. In addition to commercially made baffles, bird watchers have used old vinyl LP records, plastic salad bowls, two-liter soda bottles, and stovepipes as barriers between squirrels and feeders.

Squirrels (and other mammals) may be deterred from consuming birdseed treated with capsaicin, the chemical that makes peppers “hot.” Many commercial products are coated with capsaicin, but we are unaware of any research examining the effect of high doses of capsaicin on birds. Although capsaicin may not negatively affect wild birds, we discourage adding any products to bird foods that have not been thoroughly tested.

Bears

If you live in an area with bears, FeederWatch recommends against any feeding except when bears are hibernating. Even if it were possible to install feeders that the bears could not get to or destroy (which is unlikely), it is very dangerous for bears to associate homes with food. If you are not sure of the hibernation dates in your area, consult your local wildlife authorities.

Other Mammals

If raccoons, deer, or moose become a nuisance, the best tactic is to make your feeders inaccessible with fencing or baffles. Another option is to string a cable between two trees and suspend your feeders above the reach of the hungry critters. If these approaches are impractical, you will probably have to remove your feeders temporarily until the animals move on in search of food elsewhere. If your mammalian visitors appear only at night, try taking your feeders inside at dusk.